Oaxaca: Gastronomy, Mezcal & Monte Alban
Oaxaca is the gastronomic capital of Mexico. Discover its moles, tlayudas, artisanal mezcal bars, the ruins of Monte Alban, and the petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua in this complete guide.
Oaxaca: Mexico's Cultural and Gastronomic Jewel
If you could choose just one destination in Mexico to experience the country's authentic culture, gastronomy, and traditions, that place would be Oaxaca. This colonial city in southern Mexico has it all: a culinary scene that rivals the best in the world, artisanal mezcal, impressive Zapotec ruins, handmade textiles, and a creative energy you can feel on every cobblestone street. Here is what you absolutely cannot miss.
Oaxacan Gastronomy: Far More Than Mole
Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles, but its culinary richness goes far beyond that. These are the essential dishes:
Mole
Mole negro is the king: a complex sauce with more than 30 ingredients including chiles, chocolate, banana, and spices, cooked for hours. At Los Danzantes restaurant you can try it in a gourmet presentation ($280-$400 MXN per plate), or at any fonda in Mercado 20 de Noviembre for $80-$120 MXN. Mole rojo, amarillo, coloradito, manchamanteles, chichilo, and verde complete the family.
Tlayudas
The Oaxacan pizza: a giant crispy corn tortilla spread with asiento (pork lard), black beans, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), tasajo (dried beef), and salsa. You will find them at street stalls from $60 MXN. The best ones are in Mercado 20 de Noviembre in the tlayuda aisle, and on Calle de Libres in the evenings.
Chapulines
The famous grasshoppers toasted with garlic, lime, and chile. Yes, they are insects, and yes, they are delicious. Sold by the bag from $20 MXN at Mercado Benito Juarez. They make the perfect snack to accompany mezcal.
Oaxacan Chocolate
Oaxaca has an ancient chocolate tradition. On Calle de Mina (known as chocolate street), shops like Chocolate Mayordomo and La Soledad grind cacao right in front of you with cinnamon, almonds, and sugar. A hot chocolate costs $30-$50 MXN. Buy chocolate tablets to take home from $40 MXN per kilo.
Mezcal: The Spirit of Oaxaca
Oaxaca produces 90% of Mexican mezcal. Unlike tequila (which only uses blue agave), mezcal can be made from more than 30 agave varieties, each with a distinct flavor profile.
For an authentic experience, visit an artisanal mezcaleria:
- In Situ Mezcaleria: over 100 artisanal mezcals. Tasting of 3 mezcals for $150 MXN.
- Mezcaloteca: an educational experience where an expert guides you through 5-6 mezcals ($200 MXN). Reservations recommended.
- La Mezcalerita: mezcal cocktails from $80 MXN in a more casual setting.
If you want to see how mezcal is produced, visit a factory (palenque) in Santiago Matatlan, the town 50 km from Oaxaca known as the mezcal capital of the world. Free tours with tastings at palenques like Gracias a Dios and Rey Zapoteco.
Monte Alban: The Ancient Zapotec Capital
Just 30 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, Monte Alban was the capital of the Zapotec empire for over a thousand years (500 BCE - 700 CE). The Great Plaza, with its pyramids, the Ball Court, and the Building of the Dancers, is one of the most impressive archaeological sites in Mexico.
Practical information:
- Admission: $90 MXN (free on Sundays for Mexican nationals with INE)
- Hours: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM daily
- How to get there: buses depart from Hotel Rivera del Angel in the city center, $80 MXN round trip with fixed schedules every 30 minutes
- Bring water, a hat, and comfortable shoes. There is not much shade.
- A local guide costs $400-$600 MXN for groups of up to 6 people and is absolutely worth it
Hierve el Agua: Petrified Waterfalls
Located 70 km from Oaxaca, these unique mineral formations look like frozen waterfalls at the edge of a cliff overlooking the valley. There are natural pools where you can swim. Admission is $50 MXN. Get there by colectivo (shared van) from the central de abastos market in Oaxaca ($100 MXN round trip, 2-hour ride). The landscape is spectacular, especially at sunset.
Must-Visit Markets
Mercado Benito Juarez
The central market of Oaxaca. Here you will find chapulines, quesillo (Oaxacan cheese), chocolate, handicrafts, alebrijes, and textiles. It is more tourist-oriented but convenient due to its central location. Open from 7 AM to 9 PM.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Right next to Benito Juarez, this market is a food paradise. The grilled meat aisle is legendary: choose your cut of tasajo, cecina, or chorizo, and they grill it for you on the spot with tortillas, nopales (cactus), and salsas. A complete meal costs $100-$150 MXN.
Art, Textiles, and the Guelaguetza
Oaxaca is an artistic hotbed. The alebrijes (fantastical carved wooden figures) from San Martin Tilcajete, the wool rugs dyed with cochineal from Teotitlan del Valle, and the black clay pottery from San Bartolo Coyotepec are living traditions you can experience by visiting artisan workshops in these villages.
If you visit in July, the Guelaguetza is Oaxaca's biggest celebration: a festival of folk dance, music, and traditions from the eight regions of the state. Tickets for the bleachers at the Guelaguetza Auditorium sell out fast, but there are many free events throughout the city during the two weeks of the festival.